There are creatures that live in the lochs, cunning creatures who feed on humans. They are shape-shifters, and when they are hungry, they rise out of the water and take the form of a beautiful white horse. When a human sees it, they can’t help but to go to the horse and pet it. Something inside them whispers, “Get on his back,” and so the human mounts the horse. As soon as he is on, the horse’s mane wraps around him, trapping him as the kelpie gallops back to the loch, where the hapless human drowns.

We were lucky enough to see a kelpie, but we were even more lucky to be on the bus, where we couldn’t be tempted by the beautiful white horse.

That was a fairy tale. Unfortunately, the next story is true.

December 31, 1691 was the deadline for all the clans in Scotland to sign oaths of loyalty to King William III, king of England, Scotland and Ireland. The chief of the Glencoe McDonald clan went on the 31st to sign it, but was told he needed to go to a different town, 100 miles away. He went and signed the oath, which was then sent to Edinburgh. But the Secretary of State, Dalrymple, did not like Highlanders, so convinced his superiors that all the Glencoe McDonald’s should be killed. The king signed orders to have 200 soldiers billeted in Glencoe, and following the rules of hospitality, the McDonalds welcomed them, though most were from the rival Campbell clan. After several days, the Campbell officers received orders to kill the McDonalds, and on February 13, 1692, 38 McDonald men, women and children were massacred, and another 40 died of exposure fleeing in the forest in winter.

Scottish clans have been fighting one another for as long as there have been Scottish clans. I don’t understand. Never will.